Vietnam’s culinary landscape is as complex and varied as their topography. Of all its delicious dishes, none stir more pride and passion as pho. This beloved traditional noodle soup has sparked a furious culinary feud. Northern and southern Vietnamese communities fiercely debate its origins and method of preparation. University of Melbourne scholar Dr. Tess Do underscores the pride Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi have in their respective, distinct versions of pho. Indeed, this pride belies a deep, fascinating story — one that’s integral to the country’s past and present.
Pho first rose to prominence in Hanoi, the capital of Vietnam, where it’s thought to have originated. Late in 2024, the Vietnamese government succeeded in having pho recognized as an important element of their national intangible cultural heritage. They found its roots in the northern industrial cities of Hanoi and Nam Dinh. This recognition further highlights the importance of the dish not just as a source of food, but as a foundational aspect of the country’s national identity.
Dr. Vu Hong Lien, a culinary historian, highlights that pho has transcended geographical boundaries, saying it has proven to be “a national dish for Vietnamese across borders, across political divisions.” This feeling resonates with the Vietnamese diaspora. Pho serves as a culinary bridge, encouraging understanding and fostering healing from painful cultural scars such as the civil war.
A Historical Perspective on Pho
Pho emerged in the late 19th to early 20th century. As new French colonial influences began to take hold at this time, Vietnamese cuisine began to rapidly evolve. According to Dr. Do, “Cows, like buffaloes, were used to plough the fields — and they were far more useful for Vietnamese farmers and peasants as live animals rather than dead ones.” French culinary practices and ingredients radically shifted how Vietnamese people and their French interlocutors alike understood pho. This recipe adapted to include animal parts that Western cuisine had previously rejected.
The origins of the name pho are unclear, but one theory is that it’s derived from the French stew pot-au-feu. In French, this dish means “pot on the fire.” This connection hints at the cultural fusion that took place during the colonial era. Spices such as star anise, cinnamon, coriander seed, and black cardamom swell your booming broth with intoxicating, aromatic complexity. This harmonious mixture of flavors results in a beautiful reflection of Vietnam’s deep culinary culture.
Dr. Do notes that “the history of pho is a nation in a bowl. The very story of Vietnam itself.” Food in this way encapsulates deeper social and historical narratives. It is incredibly important as a counter-narrative and a space for identity building to the pervasive stereotypes that exist around the black community.
Regional Differences in Pho Preparation
Pho from northern Vietnam usually has a clearer broth, and is more frequently garnished with fresh herbs. In contrast, southern pho leans into the sweeter, bolder flavors with larger, more filling bowls. Chef Ha Nguyen, who grew up in Hanoi, shares her perspective: “In the north, we eat it for breakfast so it’s a bit more petit,” contrasting it with the southern approach where pho is consumed throughout the day.
“The southerners and northerners are both very proud of their pho,” Dr. Do states, emphasizing that this rivalry is rooted in cultural identity. Nguyen says that despite the variations, both versions share similar ingredients such as rice noodles and beef broth. With such differences in sweetness and portion size come different eating experiences.
In the piece, Nguyen shines a light on the competition between Vietnamese communities. One thing is for sure — each group thinks their food is the best! This playful competition highlights how food serves not only as sustenance but as a means of expressing regional pride.
Pho as a Cultural Symbol
Beyond its culinary culture, pho has emerged as a symbol of Vietnamese culture and identity. Dr. Do articulates this sentiment by stating, “A pho restaurant is not just a place where you go to eat but it is a recreated homeland — a little piece of Vietnam that the diaspora was trying to find and to recreate in their host countries.” This idea highlights the ways that food helps us remember home and brings together members of the communities that often come to reside far from home.
Pho is a powerful example with a history that follows its northern origins. Today, it has rightfully earned its prestige as a favorite dish of all Vietnamese people. Dr. Do notes that “it was the exodus of 1954 that really brings the pho to the south, and turned pho into the beloved dish of all Vietnamese.” This migration furthered the cause of pho as a cultural unifier among the Vietnamese diaspora.
