Willy Chavarria, an acclaimed Mexican-American fashion designer based in New York, made waves. Even the new Adidas sandal he collaborated on has already been accused of cultural appropriation. Recognized for his designs celebrating and advancing Chicano culture, as it is commonly known, Chavarria has been known for Mexican motifs on American consumer goods. The reason for the recent backlash is the sandal’s uncanny resemblance to traditional huaraches. Known as huaraches, these special, colorful shoes are handmade by the Zapotec Indigenous community in Oaxaca, Mexico.
Chavarria’s design featured aspects rooted in Indigenous artistry. Detractors contended that it was unable to cultivate any sort of cooperative rapport with the communities it seeks to influence. Mexican authorities acted quickly to defuse the controversy, announcing they would strengthen existing laws designed to protect Mexican designs and cultural patrimony. The huaraches—mostly made in Villa Hidalgo Yalalag—are woven tightly with Indigenous identity and tradition.
In an obvious reaction to the mounting outcry, Chavarria issued an apology for the design. He recognized the challenge of creating work that respects the cultural heritage of Oaxaca and its peoples.
“I am deeply sorry that the shoe was appropriated in this design and not developed in direct and meaningful partnership with the Oaxacan community,” – Willy Chavarria
Chavarria can’t wait to start working with local officials. He hopes that proposed development can begin a broader dialogue to “repair the damage” inflicted upon Indigenous populations. He stated his aim to honor “the powerful cultural and artistic spirit of Oaxaca and its creative communities — a place whose beauty and resistance have inspired me.”
In an equally surprising turn, Adidas followed up with their own public apology over the design. The company confirmed its intention to respect the cultural heritage of Mexico’s Indigenous communities.
“Adidas recognizes and values the cultural richness of Mexico’s Indigenous communities and the meaning of their artisanal heritage,” – Adidas
Chavarria had recently made headlines for his installation at Paris Fashion Week, where he placed a spotlight on the Trump administration’s deportation plans. Since then he’s developed a singular reputation for making work that holds deep cultural narratives. His designs have been the creative force behind sweaters that splashed the word “Chicano” across the chest in vibrant red cursive. They showcase styles embellished with the Mexican flag and cowboy hats, honoring northern Mexico’s vaquero culture.
The incident has ignited discussions about cultural appropriation in fashion, prompting calls for greater awareness and collaboration between designers and Indigenous communities. As the conversation unfolds, both Chavarria and Adidas face the challenge of addressing public concerns while fostering a deeper understanding of cultural sensitivity.
