Architect Marco Cirillo has set himself a tough task in the picturesque Barossa Valley. He has since committed himself to the preservation of some of the world’s oldest shiraz vineyards. Turkey Flat Vineyards is a great example, with historic vines planted quite possibly in 1848. This beautiful vineyard is an incredible example of resilience, surviving both natural disasters and the test of time. Cirillo’s passion for these vines is clear, and when describing the moment of harvest, he calls it “exciting and scary.”
At Turkey Flat, we vineyard without any irrigation. This remarkable survival strategy is exceptional in our present-day context of growing water scarcity issues. Christie Schulz might be the most important person in this preservation effort. She has been on the front lines fighting a vine pull scheme aimed at wiping out this colorful heritage. Her commitment is indicative of a bigger movement to protect what some are referring to as our nation’s “fine china.” These fragile and significant vines are an important part of Australia’s diverse and historic viticultural landscape.
The Fragility of History
Schulz’s commitment to the venerable vines shines through as her eyes go wide remembering the perilous situations they endure. “The drought is just mind-blowing. It’s the worst I’ve ever seen,” she notes. Yet, she remains hopeful about their resilience. “They’re still growing … most things would turn up their toes and give up,” she adds.
These venerable vines have survived more than droughts as they’ve weathered these disasters over the years. Their survival shows how great they really are. It shines a light on the specialized care these beautiful creatures receive from vineyard owners, like Cirillo and Schulz. This conception has prospered for more than 170 years. I’d say their presence is one of the most important aspects of the Australian wine industry today.
Cirillo asserts, “You’re looking at the longest continuously producing grenache vineyard in the world, so it’s highly important.” In his view, these vines provide the bricks with which to build that local history. Along the way, it highlights their importance in a global context of winemaking.
Uncovering Genetic Heritage
Marco Cirillo has gathered DNA samples from 50 vineyards around the country. Vineyards like these, each planted well before 1900, are vital links to our past and the future of preserving and protecting our unique wine legacy. Anthony Borneman, one of the leaders in this genetic research, wants to find the holes in the history of these vines. He explains, “We can use genetic relationships to work out which vines were related to each other, how they’re related, and maybe see how things were passed around the country 150 years ago.”
Borneman’s work is part of a broader effort, led by Francs de Pied. This European group is committed to certifying wines made from free-standing or lawn-vinecut vines. This group understands that countless genetic varieties could have been lost to extinction on the mainland. “A lot of these genetics may well have been lost elsewhere … so it may well be that we’re helping to expand the genetic pool for these varieties,” he states.
The Barossa Valley prides itself on having an average of 150 hectares of vines over a century old. Plus it has a further 80ha of even older vines. This rich tapestry of viticulture provides not only historical significance but diverse flavors and qualities that wine enthusiasts cherish.
A Call for Recognition
John Geber, another champion of saving these ancient vines, reminds us that they are crucial to the international wine scene. He calls tasting wine from old vines “tasting history in a glass.” He wants Australia’s ancient vines—the widely recognized treasures of Australia’s industry—to be better represented on the international stage. “If the old world had them, they would be singing it from the rooftops, but they don’t … we do,” Cirillo adds.
Geber affirms that these wines are not simply valued for their age. Rather, “They’re not good because they’re old, they are old because they’re very, very good.” His enthusiasm for these ancient vineyards emphasizes the immediate need to protect and realize their value before some become extinct, as is ever so possible today.
“This has been part of our industry for 200 years. Somebody has to protect it and there’s momentum building,” Geber states, indicating a collective effort among vineyard owners and advocates to safeguard this unique heritage.
